It's been a while. I got caught up in my work and new friendships that I forgot to write about my experiences here in South Korea. As life is picking up pace and I am settling in, I am tracking my journey less and less. Good and bad.
As promised, here is a post on working at the Korea Institute of Ocean Sciences and Technology and experiencing Chuseok (South Korean Thanksgiving)
The Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology (KIOST) is in Yeongdo-gu, an island connected by the world's scariest bridge to the mainland. KIOST shares a campus, overlooking the Busan Harbor and Oryukdo, with the Korea Maritime Institute, Korea Maritime and Ocean University, Korea Coast Guard, Ministry of Ocean and Fisheries, and Korea Marine Environment Management Corporation. It is an ocean haven. Everyone and anyone involved with the oceans can be found here. I am specifically located in the Ocean Policy Institute at KIOST.
Every day at 8:20 AM I catch the shuttle bus provided by KIOST. The bus arrives at the KIOST at 8:50 AM, and up until a few weeks ago, I had to sprint from the bus to my office to begin my Korean language class over Zoom. The entire floor can hear my running and panting to my office, hurrying to start up my computer and get my materials ready.
Here is my evening commute. Before is got too dark.
After five weeks of the language class, I quit. I could not handle the long hours plus homework and exams. I had to skip lunch with my coworkers and eat alone every day. The class was also meant for students who wanted to take the Korean language test (like the exam for non-English speakers, TOEFL) and enter a Korean company or university. The class was too much. Every day we had to learn two grammar points, which amounted to almost 40 different grammar points over a period of 5 weeks. We did not review our lessons nor learn how to creatively apply grammar in everyday speaking. How in the world was I supposed to learn? So per the advice of my mother, an expert in teaching foreign languages to English-speakers, I quit.
"But Eliya, how are you going to learn Korean without taking the classes?" Don't worry, my friend, everyone in my department (except for 2 or 3 folks) does not speak English. And, fortunately, they all have patience for my toddler-level Korean. During lunch, they ask me about my day, the food I like to eat, and where I have been. They compliment me on how well I eat spicy food. Lunchtime is my favorite time. Once in a while, a researcher (usually more senior) will buy lunch for everyone on the floor. Other times, we order delivery and eat together (share the food) in the lounge. Below are a couple of examples.
I cannot stress enough the generosity of South Koreans. While my officemate is quiet and does not speak English, she is always aware of things I might need without knowing or verbalizing. When I had just arrived at KIOST, every day, I would find something on my desk that I did know I needed or was too afraid to ask for: a printer, double monitors, trash cans, phone, pens, tissue paper, etc. Keep in mind, KIOST is not getting paid for me being here. Additionally, while I was either in class or working at my desks, researchers would come by and hand me sweet potatoes to snack on. Other folks would message me and make sure that I am not lonely, have everything I need at home, or frequently call my family. Many researchers worked abroad, so they understood what it is like to be away from home. In the U.S., you will never come across this type of generosity.
Now it is not all rainbows and butterflies. In the beginning, I was scared out of my mind of coming off as rude or ungrateful. Due to my existing inabilities to verbalize my feelings with the addition of a language barrier, I was mortified that some of the researchers disliked me. For example, there is a well-established researcher a few doors down from me. He was extremely intimidating. His hair is dark, his voice is deep, and his mask covers all his facial expressions. I could never gauge his emotions. I did not say much to him because I was afraid to make a mistake (I know, coward.). However, one day, someone let it slip, that I found him scary. I think he found out, and a day later, he invited me out to dinner and drinks with him. And let me say one thing, he is not scary anymore. He turned out to be an incredibly smiley man who enjoys drinking, a lot. And his voice? Well, that's because he learned how to speak English in Texas. Go figures.
Now back to the butterflies and rainbows. Because of my master's research, I have established myself as a legitimate researcher here in South Korea. The folks that I have interviewed are very eager to continue to help me with my research. They constantly connect me to new people to meet and check-in with me to see how I am adjusting to South Korean life. I have also come across a "University of Rhode Island Mafia." There are about 5 to 6 alumni of URI programs, and I am slowly getting initiated into this Mafia. One of the leaders has taken the "father figure" position, introduced me to everyone he knows, and made sure that I am "okay" personally and professionally. He is also committed to me learning Korean. So while he can speak English, he refuses to.
Overall, I am on a roll. My stomach, heart, and mind are full. I have already been told that I am "doing too much," and I "need to take it slow." Although it is hard too (because of the lingering imposter syndrome), I am trying to relieve the pressure of my own expectations and just enjoy my life here. I always joke that I have three jobs - cultural exchange, research, and language learning. I can't do all of them at the same time! I must take it slow~
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Let's shift gears a bit. September 21st was Chuseok. It's a day where families gather to honor their ancestors and share a large meal.
Remember my friend Eunji? I asked her if she knew anyone in Busan. She introduced me to her friend Dayeon. I reached out to Dayeon over KakaoTalk (South Korea's Whatsapp) and suggested we should hang out. We set up a time to meet up but a few days before, I had to cancel because of an important dinner I was invited to with a professor I interviewed during my master's. I asked Dayeon to let me know a time that works best for her since I knew the Chuseok holiday was coming, and she would probably spend it with her family. And to my surprise, she invited me to her house to celebrate the holiday with her family. I was shocked at her kindness. We never met, and she was inviting me to sleep at her home, help prepare the food, and be involved in the Chuseok ancestral ceremonies.
I was so nervous. I asked all of my coworkers what an appropriate gift to bring to Dayeon's is. People suggested cosmetics, cooking oils, or pre-made gift sets. None of that felt genuine. I decided to buy my favorite fancy thing, Tea. So with my fancy tea gift and nice clothing, I headed to Dayeon's place.
As I exit the train station, I see this bubbly woman walking towards me. The moment I walk up to her, I feel like I've known her for years. Dayeon is one of the most approachable, fun, and kind people that I have met here. After exchanging our introductions (oh, keep in mind her parents did not know this was the first time we met. shhh, a secret), we walked to her house to begin the festivities.
Once we arrived at her home, I saw her brother on the floor cooking Jeon (Korean pancakes) and her mom, dad, and aunt preparing other foods in the kitchen. "Oh, they are going to put me right to work," I thought to myself. Dayeon immediately handed me clothes to change into - XXL t-shirt and genie pants.
I joined Dayeon and her brother on the floor to prepare the Jeon. We dipped an assortment of goodies (mushrooms, fish, sesame leaves) into eggs and flour, and her brother professionally fried them all. Several hours later, we completed our frying the jeon mission and prepared for dinner.
My first home-cooked (not by myself) meal in Korea. I ate SO much. The dinner was a funny experience because Dayeon's family was admiring my chopsticks abilities, how well I could eat spicy food, and that I could sit on the floor while eating. It was a bit awkward to receive these compliments. I just smiled and told them, "I am from California. I learned these things at a young age because I had many Asian-American friends." I did not want them to feel like they had to accommodate for my "Americanness."
After dinner, we took a long walk to digest, watched some Korean dramas, and fell asleep. The following day we woke up early to prepare for the ancestral ceremony. Everyone put on black slacks and a button-up shirt. Daeyeon's mother cooked the food, and her brother and father prepared the table. There is a specific order of preparing that table of which I don't know how to explain. On the table were fruits, meats, veggies, rice, and soup. All of the doors in the house were left open to allow the spirits to enter the home.
During the ceremony, we all bowed towards the table of food. You must do specific movements during the ceremony, such as placing chopsticks on top of the food to invite spirits to eat. Tapping the table with chopsticks three times to tell the spirits there is food here. Three was the magic number, but I am not sure why. I am so grateful they let me participate in the bowing. A few days before Chuseok, my great uncle (my grandmother's oldest brother) passed away. Dayeon's family welcomed me to invite his spirit to this meal. I hope he enjoyed Korean food, haha.
After the ceremony, we a more and slept more. Then, we had to prepare our stomachs again for another large meal at Dayeon's grandmother's house. I was told I need to make a lot of room in my stomach because I'll be having the best food of my life. They weren't wrong. I had raised beef ribs, a spicy beef stew, homemade plum alcohol, and delicious vegetable glass noodles. I wanted to eat more, but I had no room. I was so stuffed that I could barely walk. Fortunately, in Dayeon's words, they had "to-go service." Dayeon's mother and aunt packed me enough food that lasted my two weeks. And I am forever grateful. I hope I can come back next year for more food.
Here are all of the Chuseok food pics: First dinner, jeon, glass noodles, second dinner, braised beef ribs.
And this is where I end the post. It has been well over a month since Chuseok. Not much has changed. I have been working on Ph.D. applications and writing an article for submission. I plan to take more small trips around the country and enjoy the cool weather before it gets too cold.
Signing off!
Thank you for taking the time to update us via your blog Eliya. I enjoyed reading and viewing the pictures. The tables with food look so polished. May your Great Uncle rest in Peace.